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The tests are based on the following:
Cables and the condition of the sensor connector must be checked. That they are not in poor condition, matches or anything else that suggests a problem of false contact or loss of electrical connection.
The sensor should not be hit, if it hits, the internal ceramic breaks and leaks and will stop working.
This sensor has no heater.
For the 4-wire one that if it has a heating resistor would be:
To better focus on the meaning of the pins, below I leave the diagram of both oxygen sensors, both for 2-wire and 4-wire.
After verifying that there are no short circuits, the sensor is operated:
Start the car and wait for the oxygen sensor to warm up. While it is not hot, you do not see tension in the sensor. It will only mark zero.
Once hot, it will start to oscillate between 0.1V and 0.9V. The frequency is in the order of 2 Hz or 3 Hz.
With the digital multimeter, you will see changes in reading that vary from 0.1V to 0.9V look as if it were random, but in reality you are measuring a sine-like wave.
With my measuring device if you will see the LEDs in reciprocating. Seeing exactly the measurement that is coming out of the sensor.
If there is no oscillation, we must rule out problems with other parts of the engine.
Accelerating the blow motor causes sudden rich mixing and the voltage shift towards 0.9V should be seen. After the acceleration it is noted that the voltage will go to 0.1 V quickly.
If the above occurs, then our sensor is responding to variations.
If the sensor keeps in a rich mixture (more than 0.8V) at all times, it may be due to dripping injectors.
If the sensor is kept in a poor mixture (less than 0.2V), it is possible that it has an improper air intake to the motor. You should check the brake booster hoses, vacuum hoses to the intake manifold that are not broken or loose.
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